tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80390498503319742322024-02-19T03:51:31.067+00:00Of shoes and ships and sealing waxBookwormairheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10541943511427901197noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-63750076502898700002020-04-05T17:05:00.001+01:002020-04-05T17:05:38.587+01:00Fer Gawd's sake, where does the time go...?Honestly, it just flies away.<br />
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And now...NOW, we're all stuck at home, sewing facemasks and scrubs and I don't know what.<br />
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And my sewing space is now my work-from-home space.<br />
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And, frankly, who wants to move a laptop and two screens and a docking station, a keyboard and mouse before they sew? I just want to sit and press the pedal, y'know?...<br />
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BUT, I've just signed up to an 8-week course on fitting so, sorry husband, the dining room table is now going to have to be my sewing place, because I NEED to sew!<br />
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There has been sewing, of course...<br />
The Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress - I've made this a couple of times:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/FDOWgwSQsHjTy9YN6J9U6zICUYvomtwil8F5jjdz8hieJ5J7CHHTpGM6ZBrTCCaEBptUCIHrOiU=s400" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/FDOWgwSQsHjTy9YN6J9U6zICUYvomtwil8F5jjdz8hieJ5J7CHHTpGM6ZBrTCCaEBptUCIHrOiU=s400" width="240" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/ypJqGmh86kiRcvabsuEOJMsppv1Ruu0aI1Rdgf-hAmQ4Bu5KgjWOB3kh5bNxZeAro161OYc5xAo=s400" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/ypJqGmh86kiRcvabsuEOJMsppv1Ruu0aI1Rdgf-hAmQ4Bu5KgjWOB3kh5bNxZeAro161OYc5xAo=s400" width="240" /></a>TIGERS!</div>
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A lovely linen top, made with a bit of linen I bought in Stockholm last May - a lovely memento of a trip with friends. I didn't have quite enough in length for the back as well, so I split the back in two and did a contrast yoke in inky blue/grey.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/XUMI5AJSXXz0CBZhvRuxUhjryvprDDVrTj5o_XWrGEAuBc9hU3rGH6uKsQ9r6xF8Pw-tkHA7yjE=s400" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/XUMI5AJSXXz0CBZhvRuxUhjryvprDDVrTj5o_XWrGEAuBc9hU3rGH6uKsQ9r6xF8Pw-tkHA7yjE=s400" width="240" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/PbKDnaQ_U0tnGK67qdoZpylmqLk_X_tuy01kOnQSlrsy0nFtoamuisy5-Ea9aJ_Ygxz9njCQBjs=s400" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/PbKDnaQ_U0tnGK67qdoZpylmqLk_X_tuy01kOnQSlrsy0nFtoamuisy5-Ea9aJ_Ygxz9njCQBjs=s400" width="240" /></a></div>
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I had a test toile for a dress for a friend's wedding last April. Months later, in the summer, I had a job interview and NOTHING TO WEAR. Then I remembered the toile. It's a plain grey thing, perfectly sober for a job interview. I couldn't find the sleeve pieces anywhere so I badly edged the armholes in some bias and wore a cardigan. We had a minor car accident on the way and I got a bit lost when my husband dropped me off, but it all seemed to go ok and an hour later I had a new job! Lucky dress! I've now found the sleeves and plan to add them...well, anything to get rid of the, frankly, terrible bit of sewing that is my bias edging.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/984k2pd3vNvH27T742vjbb_8_0A6Ql4b8QvpGXN71YBn01ntJ3s410_38m9lu3XEMq7kU8GMsTs=s400" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="225" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/984k2pd3vNvH27T742vjbb_8_0A6Ql4b8QvpGXN71YBn01ntJ3s410_38m9lu3XEMq7kU8GMsTs=s400" width="180" /></a></div>
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So, there has been sewing, there continues to be sewing, I'm just a bit terrible at blogging!</div>
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-86748996855006704772018-09-22T22:15:00.002+01:002018-09-22T22:15:20.823+01:00The big project of the yearAutumn jackets and winter coats - I've been thinking about outerwear for AGES.<br />
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And when I bought a lovely length of corduroy from the sale rail at my local fabric shop I knew it was going to be a jacket. That doesn't always happen, sometimes I buy fabric just because I have to - it's too beautiful to leave behind - and its destiny reveals itself sometime later. And in the meantime I build a store of fabrics, all neatly laundered, pressed and folded, waiting to be turned into something.<br />
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Now, I understand that there are people who do not have a fabric stash.<br />
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No stash.<br />
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No.<br />
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Stash.<br />
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<i>Apparently</i> they decide to make something, get the pattern, buy the fabric and set to. I can't even...<br />
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Fancy NOT browsing the fabric shops and seeing something utterly delicious and being gripped with the sheer overwhelming need to own it.<br />
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Well, it's beyond my ken.<br />
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But the corduroy - duck-egg blue, with a slight stretch to it - that was <i>always</i> a jacket, from the moment we met.<br />
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Pattern-hunting was harder, I wanted something that would do it justice, princess seams, notched collar, single-breasted, unlined.<br />
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I love the <a href="https://oliverands.com/shop/digital-luffa-shawl-collar-jacket-sewing-pattern.html#tab-size-chart" target="_blank">Luffa jacket</a>, but it was outside my size range and I didn't want to do loads of grading.<br />
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Eventually I decided on the <a href="https://www.onthecuttingfloor.com/new-pattern-for-sale-santiago-jacket/" target="_blank">Santiago from On The Cutting Floor. </a> It had pretty much all the details I wanted. It's a PDF, and it taped together relatively easily. I know some people don't like them but I don't mind PDFs. But I do have a dining table to tape them on which helps.<br />
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Luckily, just at the point I was ready to start, a local sewing classes shop started a weekly evening class of 6 sessions which I joined. It was just as well really. There were 3 of us and 2 tutors so the ratio was brilliant!<br />
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Details: I did a full bust adjustment, a bicep adjustment and lengthened it slightly. I also did a regular sleeve and left off the buttoned cuff detail.<br />
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I decided to finish my seams with a Hong Kong finish - enclosing them in bias binding. I happened to have a reel of Liberty Lawn bias which a friend gave me and which picked up the colour beautifully.<br />
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I changed from a patch pocket to welt pockets - just to preserve the clean sweep of the front.<br />
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The sleeves were a NIGHTMARE! For some reason the notches didn't match up at all so a great deal of it was good luck but eventually we got them together and in place. I lined them in some shot silk that was a total fluke for colour matching. I had just enough, there are literally scraps left!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAXJs6kWTjTVw7nmJEkrbBYtRc_EfUr8mnF66XQyf3zHdx95ZpoVjKJGtYvSTppLFqekLhdbLHGA9nanRMkeW3C2dr28_pq5lEDjFY_wJTaL8QeW59rOjjGGbrmSmjKmseIUABzBwyb4/s1600/IMG_1136.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAXJs6kWTjTVw7nmJEkrbBYtRc_EfUr8mnF66XQyf3zHdx95ZpoVjKJGtYvSTppLFqekLhdbLHGA9nanRMkeW3C2dr28_pq5lEDjFY_wJTaL8QeW59rOjjGGbrmSmjKmseIUABzBwyb4/s320/IMG_1136.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And then I used the same Liberty lawn in a different colourway for the pockets and the hem binding - the pattern is called <a href="https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/mark-tana-lawn-cotton-101404.html" target="_blank">Mark</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWH_AFVnTFP6nQCH663Nx-8KrL6DIFEqDmJL0I8GFhJ3TYuarFpg-0jc4X6RTzcsSg6LaGqu-poV6oU1SeclkGqvbJ_p_zLnnJLaFpCjPLjRHOWACrQHCOiO2O2LTv35REuDyHlgKztI/s1600/IMG_1135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAWH_AFVnTFP6nQCH663Nx-8KrL6DIFEqDmJL0I8GFhJ3TYuarFpg-0jc4X6RTzcsSg6LaGqu-poV6oU1SeclkGqvbJ_p_zLnnJLaFpCjPLjRHOWACrQHCOiO2O2LTv35REuDyHlgKztI/s320/IMG_1135.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once it was finished the weather was madly hot so I had to hang it up and not wear it for about 2 months! But now it's heading into Autumn it's cool enough to wear and I LOVE IT!<br />
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<i>However</i>, there are some issues with the pattern. I had two very experienced people helping me, people who have a combined total of about 80 sewing years. One of them is a teacher. And we had some significant problems with the pattern and the instructions. </div>
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<li>The sleeve notches mentioned above. The sleeve cap didn't actually have one and the rest generally didn't match up.</li>
<li>The sleeve pieces were really out of alignment , it was quite a hard job getting them to go together.</li>
<li>The front and sides didn't match up.</li>
<li>The under collar piece has no grain line.</li>
<li>There's no note of the seam allowance used, but then sometimes it refers to a seam allowance, so you don't know if this is the standard or a different s/a. I ended up asking the pattern-maker in her Facebook group. It's the same throughout.</li>
<li>The instructions look detailed but are actually really quite sketchy. </li>
<li>The line drawings are hard to decipher.</li>
<li>The instructions pages are not numbered but say things like "refer to page 12".</li>
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All in all, it's a lot of small niggly things that made this slightly more difficult that it needed to be. With the adjustments and making a toile - I was given some swedish tracing paper for my birthday (thanks sis!) - it took me 3 weeks before I even got to sewing my good fabric. I ended up signing up for another 4 weeks to get it finished, and I'm really glad I did, I couldn't have done it without them.</div>
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In all this took me 30-35 hours to finish, and part of that is because of the problems I had. <i>If </i>I was to make it again I would probably use a standard jacket construction from a book or Threads or something! Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the end result, but I can't honestly say I'd make it again as it's written...</div>
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Still, it's nice to wear and I am enjoying it very much!</div>
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Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-37189303005636791492018-09-16T13:11:00.000+01:002018-09-16T13:11:08.717+01:00The year so far part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I <i>really</i> wanted a cosy cowl neck dress. This was ridiculous on so many levels, mostly because a polo or cowl is often held up as a definite "no. just no" on a larger bust. Oh and the fact that I don't like tight things around my neck. I mean. What was I thinking?</div>
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I used the Madeit Patterns Groove for this - it's a great pattern, I've made quite a few and really love it. And look! So cowl-y and fold-y and lovely and warm.</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">And so DEEPLY unflattering!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_kgJbFNtwaDyVUIwawLM9ITQTBx8xaFNym8MKcK_1zNfEL5oynweSJDjPJ8YVMlpsvPgb7-rqsma79NDGUWcTnC9391zq7Bv0KSzJy7aM_DSMxQvTdP7piYW4g1TvDjWnxUPc2YqlLjo/s1600/IMG_0874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_kgJbFNtwaDyVUIwawLM9ITQTBx8xaFNym8MKcK_1zNfEL5oynweSJDjPJ8YVMlpsvPgb7-rqsma79NDGUWcTnC9391zq7Bv0KSzJy7aM_DSMxQvTdP7piYW4g1TvDjWnxUPc2YqlLjo/s320/IMG_0874.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Yeah. </div>
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I had to narrow and shorten the sleeves, chopped a lot off the hem and ended up removing the cowl and it was rescued. And I'm never doing cowl necks again. </div>
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-87108907651798300632018-09-16T12:05:00.001+01:002018-09-16T12:05:23.590+01:00Yeah, I need to do this more regularly...I always <i>mean </i>to blog more regularly, but that life thing gets in the way. Ahem, anyway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXSTQGCacBb6BHeSzpVIZrbuAF_FDZvlOzdsOeQBeS7Djwtxu9_Lb7ouzaw6XW_Se_E7IXVOkL75eaviacgKtfVhIGEQB8HKdnsrMHu5yRIn5TyM0yHVPovLcqbLatmSkadle-lw00MM/s1600/IMG_0741.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFXSTQGCacBb6BHeSzpVIZrbuAF_FDZvlOzdsOeQBeS7Djwtxu9_Lb7ouzaw6XW_Se_E7IXVOkL75eaviacgKtfVhIGEQB8HKdnsrMHu5yRIn5TyM0yHVPovLcqbLatmSkadle-lw00MM/s200/IMG_0741.JPG" width="150" /></a>After the wedding dress, ball gown extravaganza I had a small break. And then it was Christmas, so I made a few impromptu gifts of neckwarmers - these are wool tweed lined with cotton lawn, nice and warm for cold winters, no trailing scarf ends for the cyclists among you.<br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDBfG1oYOoacnjZmroAzgCJKJgAyXbczZmsjASviTa4dM0HPn0C11TMQSDbiB5GDjHTqP4noNxvgp4dMfX7Nq5BwxffYpViafIinwcozpSvkyoTbB0mnH457LIEa_-XREiUo7pFL4BP_g/s1600/IMG_0740.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDBfG1oYOoacnjZmroAzgCJKJgAyXbczZmsjASviTa4dM0HPn0C11TMQSDbiB5GDjHTqP4noNxvgp4dMfX7Nq5BwxffYpViafIinwcozpSvkyoTbB0mnH457LIEa_-XREiUo7pFL4BP_g/s200/IMG_0740.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
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There were also some scarves - these are backed with linen scrim and then washed so the scrim goes soft and crinkly. It's a lovely simple technique for texture and interest.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfj_MSgLTzn7mRPLQ96A50I7_l1HZeqL84D-aBpzokHbLrmphYQyHkLOKZsVf72wYWC4EpfVYM4HvDkX-QWAKAVZqrEgiLNS55Fys3C6ZKmWoawDAwMarqdJMq3KfzIWt2Clkrkh_aao/s1600/IMG_0746.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMfj_MSgLTzn7mRPLQ96A50I7_l1HZeqL84D-aBpzokHbLrmphYQyHkLOKZsVf72wYWC4EpfVYM4HvDkX-QWAKAVZqrEgiLNS55Fys3C6ZKmWoawDAwMarqdJMq3KfzIWt2Clkrkh_aao/s320/IMG_0746.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEF1i5Pot8wTRVpySxd1XmiRB4LTJ9vnyZbl230VBOHKC0HXOqEkDacwYgpw1DMZOE1SMGxg1nbe21Lo0NRN0cra5269ItcuCheCFMzZmkttKXZ3AuWn7dpRYO5iiYGIbbu4zcvSYTYhQ/s1600/IMG_0721.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEF1i5Pot8wTRVpySxd1XmiRB4LTJ9vnyZbl230VBOHKC0HXOqEkDacwYgpw1DMZOE1SMGxg1nbe21Lo0NRN0cra5269ItcuCheCFMzZmkttKXZ3AuWn7dpRYO5iiYGIbbu4zcvSYTYhQ/s320/IMG_0721.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
I also took the ribbons and the cake-topper mini-bunting from my sister's wedding and turned them in to Christmas tree baubles - not sewing, but a lot of glue-gun action!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OCrH5IkREF4R2Mloi1QA9OGpDQoUIUYlwgY_ezm5IFTe03ggsXGtRRortAtOIxF1PlgxF57TfBB0EHIr2k6ewuDxnawZYJbp0b3P70dDNZOe1bg74pL5snzr57mlN-KeX6GM1xr8yZQ/s1600/IMG_0725.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2OCrH5IkREF4R2Mloi1QA9OGpDQoUIUYlwgY_ezm5IFTe03ggsXGtRRortAtOIxF1PlgxF57TfBB0EHIr2k6ewuDxnawZYJbp0b3P70dDNZOe1bg74pL5snzr57mlN-KeX6GM1xr8yZQ/s320/IMG_0725.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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After that I returned to my favourite skirt pattern, the <a href="https://www.tiedyedivapatterns.com/product/the-chocolate-chip-skirt-for-women-xs-to-xxxl" target="_blank">Chocolate Chip, by TieDyeDiva</a>. For this one I changed the scoop of the pocket to a slant for more pocket depth. This is Emma Bridgewater Pomegranates fabric which I LOVE. I got it from <a href="https://www.facebook.com/clearancefabrics" target="_blank">Standfast and Barracks in Lancaster</a>. It was super-cheap because it had printing faults, but you can't see them. I just love it!<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip10s_UZPmFlkcLIl1WArKqUfirTIMyoEhPt2RQCYF4y-JzjjJy-wU8jJXf4wyPFQEijA8TkUdPs2UBWV2Pt-Wn40eWoSPhgoSsx_3AwV9bkgg3yyKGJpBQ8LGYvpP7cB3pWG528mgvoo/s1600/IMG_0726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip10s_UZPmFlkcLIl1WArKqUfirTIMyoEhPt2RQCYF4y-JzjjJy-wU8jJXf4wyPFQEijA8TkUdPs2UBWV2Pt-Wn40eWoSPhgoSsx_3AwV9bkgg3yyKGJpBQ8LGYvpP7cB3pWG528mgvoo/s320/IMG_0726.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7QW5aObQUji3aSGHq9d3_pDhiwjU3YNxhEy1jLsW0eqabMFlYJVA6AKgtERMlQRHNPFjTUUwGEYQ9_J2anXCIaP-HjxMMi97FU-5S9_26u2mMVru54HcbTohve71zdIiNe6qun2zzxM/s1600/IMG_0730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY7QW5aObQUji3aSGHq9d3_pDhiwjU3YNxhEy1jLsW0eqabMFlYJVA6AKgtERMlQRHNPFjTUUwGEYQ9_J2anXCIaP-HjxMMi97FU-5S9_26u2mMVru54HcbTohve71zdIiNe6qun2zzxM/s320/IMG_0730.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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Also not-sewing, I knitted these warm and slightly ridiculous pixie boot slippers - they were ENORMOUS before I felted them in a hot wash!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-qokJAj-LHLAtEVVCw39GfnT88V5DBFTyM2n-Xa6gS0FKDYP1KP4FGNHIf4WILHH-34lOCH70khjuIKUC-Z259JTemUMnYXO-csYcdZpkDz23GmB10fhIw74GHElZi2NrPE2L1PCYHs4/s1600/IMG_0838.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-qokJAj-LHLAtEVVCw39GfnT88V5DBFTyM2n-Xa6gS0FKDYP1KP4FGNHIf4WILHH-34lOCH70khjuIKUC-Z259JTemUMnYXO-csYcdZpkDz23GmB10fhIw74GHElZi2NrPE2L1PCYHs4/s320/IMG_0838.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Earlier this year a colleague offered me a sewing machine and I very gratefully accepted. His wife had upgraded and, in his words, "she doesn't really need two". I didn't say that I already had three... It's very heavy and feels like a total BEAST! I think it'll be perfect for coating or jeans. I contacted Janome who were able to provide a PDF of the original manual which is great. I have a coat planned, I think it'll be getting a proper workout!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwY81eWhiP4whpUCjbjjEmAF7kVQ6U1FfmEGMERpetxCdhYEM_xNUdlqHwNDCZmSOgSUr1aIprVjdMZqatQWsFQGzIUHLl9h66g22966U4z4FYYTv6ginl7o0WnUmeCU0XsCcHbxvd38/s1600/IMG_0862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQwY81eWhiP4whpUCjbjjEmAF7kVQ6U1FfmEGMERpetxCdhYEM_xNUdlqHwNDCZmSOgSUr1aIprVjdMZqatQWsFQGzIUHLl9h66g22966U4z4FYYTv6ginl7o0WnUmeCU0XsCcHbxvd38/s320/IMG_0862.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-27416473520467301742017-11-18T21:58:00.003+00:002017-11-18T21:58:44.239+00:00Busy busy busy!My sister got married at the weekend so there has been a LOT of planning and, for me, a lot of sewing. Of course. I wouldn't have missed an opportunity like that!<br />
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There was the hen party - I can recommend Bratislava, it's a great mix of Austro-Hungarian empire and Communist brutalism. I had a lot of fun making little Japanese knot bags and scrabble-tile necklaces for the hens.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXaiK8gFbCguZhyphenhyphen6vedhCABdnn5YqvgPfCO3UU4lfXZQn1ebSEBqllqGncMOZj4QpY24jM6VXDexmNctU-BtFEqFMpQpgCKxOPLCmBMa8yfgRo5wC7r7hLCMizDsQFfY0Vj3jHSwxuvE/s1600/stitches_24633508308_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEXaiK8gFbCguZhyphenhyphen6vedhCABdnn5YqvgPfCO3UU4lfXZQn1ebSEBqllqGncMOZj4QpY24jM6VXDexmNctU-BtFEqFMpQpgCKxOPLCmBMa8yfgRo5wC7r7hLCMizDsQFfY0Vj3jHSwxuvE/s200/stitches_24633508308_o.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1O-g25gVw_9l44gaieqVDfmTbSEPm1sN5yUfpLIdWfgd7vj5n-RgjIBaAzPfqu2_OP8e-mIN8BtEOR2-1Tx1HBjddHDJn30-_3x6j_nWjgsW_y3W_i8QDLkxbSaFj84FeX1CoOLXFoI/s1600/stitches_38450057986_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC1O-g25gVw_9l44gaieqVDfmTbSEPm1sN5yUfpLIdWfgd7vj5n-RgjIBaAzPfqu2_OP8e-mIN8BtEOR2-1Tx1HBjddHDJn30-_3x6j_nWjgsW_y3W_i8QDLkxbSaFj84FeX1CoOLXFoI/s200/stitches_38450057986_o.jpg" width="150" /></a><span style="text-align: center;">The bags were all reversible - unfortunately I didn't re-</span><span style="text-align: center;">arrange them in the same order so I can't actually tell you what the fabric pairs are!</span><br />
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Next up was an alteration to the wedding dress - the actual wedding dress. We are a fortunate bunch with blessings in the ample frontage department! So although it is my sister's size it was a bit unbalanced in the bodice for bust reasons. My solution was to put in a laced back - and I can wholly recommend <a href="http://www.bridalcoveredbuttons.co.uk/Pages/ButtonLoopClosureKit.aspx" target="_blank">Bridal Covered Buttons</a>, their kit was perfect. They're made to order and are super quality with really good instructions. I had a complete fluke on choosing the right colour match for the kit, which was a relief, and didn't bother with the modesty panel as the closure gap was close enough to not need it once it was properly done up.<br />
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It went from this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCadGOvL4LSugYA4SA9oJ4agyk4OfGLUeiXfkl4GBlYBGFeW__1cDYxFO2-h6Cg7OWfGoys9q_Oi3Wih_ahV6zEMfSb2kEQDEN9K2ozAKSSXQILcoUASRQuHfvOLud8roj95VDnvHL_wE/s1600/dress+before+alteration.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="360" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCadGOvL4LSugYA4SA9oJ4agyk4OfGLUeiXfkl4GBlYBGFeW__1cDYxFO2-h6Cg7OWfGoys9q_Oi3Wih_ahV6zEMfSb2kEQDEN9K2ozAKSSXQILcoUASRQuHfvOLud8roj95VDnvHL_wE/s320/dress+before+alteration.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Smzka71ZdrjAHUrOTyKUaqUe33Mwwz1KotIH1caztuIRMvf0fshlhcDsPrVDBki4DI3nhR0m1lDFrsCQgagXg6KSy1s3_MtKfAN5qgh4CpuKRbnF9DYndnu5zA1PlrubVLcwIMBapJE/s1600/stitches_38450057366_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7Smzka71ZdrjAHUrOTyKUaqUe33Mwwz1KotIH1caztuIRMvf0fshlhcDsPrVDBki4DI3nhR0m1lDFrsCQgagXg6KSy1s3_MtKfAN5qgh4CpuKRbnF9DYndnu5zA1PlrubVLcwIMBapJE/s320/stitches_38450057366_o.jpg" width="240" /></a>To this:<br />
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For the daytime I made myself a circle skirt out of blue micro-fibre silk - it's not real silk but it has lovely drape though it is super-slippery to sew. I originally planned to make <a href="https://jaycotts.co.uk/products/v8980#.Wf47vmi0NPY" target="_blank">Vogue V8980</a> which is lovely, but the practice piece I made was utterly wrong on me - the pleating made it very bunchy at the front and I've got enough going on up front thankyouverymuch. So I ditched it and decided to go for a simple circle instead. The hem ended up a little uneven because it's so slippery, but I've added some horsehair braid to give it a bit of flip and I think it did nicely - and who was looking at me anyway?! All attention should be on the beautiful woman in the white frock!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43n5OkrjDBYtx-grixwoe8-Udta9hQpNTBDcgRLK8LY3qs8aLn9QQTrq108SmflzmpU8-JF-UE9yXdC3yIXNYWvjwS5JJ5Y362yLeuQf6FSofZaVo4FhNntCrnO_d8rHYfGBF8knwlyE/s1600/Vogue+V4240.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh43n5OkrjDBYtx-grixwoe8-Udta9hQpNTBDcgRLK8LY3qs8aLn9QQTrq108SmflzmpU8-JF-UE9yXdC3yIXNYWvjwS5JJ5Y362yLeuQf6FSofZaVo4FhNntCrnO_d8rHYfGBF8knwlyE/s320/Vogue+V4240.jpg" width="240" /></a>The wedding included an evening masked ball. So, OF COURSE, I decided to make a ball gown. I naturally set myself something of a challenge, and wanted to make something close to Vintage Vogue 4042. A pattern from 1950, with a gorgeous collar. I could do the bodice and skirt easily, but the collar - how on earth to get that beautiful shape? Look at it, isn't it BEAUTIFUL! I spent a lot of time googling Every. Single. Variation of collar design I could think of with absolutely no solution. I knew I had to track down a copy of the pattern to get the shape of the collar pieces, and for a vintage pattern that is 67 years old I had limited hope of any success.<br />
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After <i>weeks,</i> literally,<i> </i>of stalking eBay I struck lucky when someone listed the pattern for £4.50 - a STEAL, considering it's on Etsy for something like $90 *shocked face*. It wasn't my size, or anywhere near it, but at least I had it.<br />
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So, I bought 5m of a gorgeous dark gold slub silk - I think it's called dupion these days - and got busy.<br />
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The silk cuts like butter and sews like a dream, it's not at all slippery because of the slubs, and it's really easy to handle - and trust me, I've wrangled 4.5m in this so I know what I'm talking about!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyobo71EcIOCST_f4k5_y-IBISd5XMDoUbR6GVHK3k3TzbNuvhrizGHrum4B7MTdRHK4_qe6AbymSK3KNeywFOw3yypiHv8LhKjGyHDdw-09MEqAtwTi6bUXlWdI19F9l9gJEtNe8Jp4/s1600/Cuff.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyobo71EcIOCST_f4k5_y-IBISd5XMDoUbR6GVHK3k3TzbNuvhrizGHrum4B7MTdRHK4_qe6AbymSK3KNeywFOw3yypiHv8LhKjGyHDdw-09MEqAtwTi6bUXlWdI19F9l9gJEtNe8Jp4/s200/Cuff.jpg" width="150" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphen91S2BiFuSZIaeax1qHWcEaeQbJj-OryWL4rxHA8esjFxHBkklzVvyS3_B_5s75qsEOQq8uFiatWfGKPI5xvF9R4ZHZfN-qtIjKocg446zyyaE-cHNU8bqik8AC3ZA_Zhc45ae6w3C8/s1600/stitches_38473575882_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhyphenhyphen91S2BiFuSZIaeax1qHWcEaeQbJj-OryWL4rxHA8esjFxHBkklzVvyS3_B_5s75qsEOQq8uFiatWfGKPI5xvF9R4ZHZfN-qtIjKocg446zyyaE-cHNU8bqik8AC3ZA_Zhc45ae6w3C8/s200/stitches_38473575882_o.jpg" width="150" /></a>Changes I made to the pattern:<br />
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<li>I used my own bodice block with a v-neck rather than the wide bardo-ish style neck of the pattern.</li>
<li>Added elbow length sleeves</li>
<li>Drafted a turn-back cuff - using the method in <a href="http://www.sew2pro.com/tag/turnback-cuffs/" target="_blank">this blog by sew2pro</a> - slightly inspired by the cuffs on <a href="https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/103864335131903178/" target="_blank">Modes Royale 959</a>, another early 1950s pattern</li>
<li>Used shoulder princess seams rather than the armscye ones in the original</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvZSZ2VV_Yh0Skf_GCK_lSUaVdjC6sURBJXHl1_foCkaOtBua5o8YC241vwiodX2aZid7TD9QsvXFJvyaGwEa64I6eNVoi3VHpNhwhaNSW8FSYZG5CyO3XyYORU9iF9p74k1KnrBLFps/s1600/stitches_37790212864_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJvZSZ2VV_Yh0Skf_GCK_lSUaVdjC6sURBJXHl1_foCkaOtBua5o8YC241vwiodX2aZid7TD9QsvXFJvyaGwEa64I6eNVoi3VHpNhwhaNSW8FSYZG5CyO3XyYORU9iF9p74k1KnrBLFps/s320/stitches_37790212864_o.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
So. That collar. Interesting shape, no idea at first how to make it look like the one on the pattern picture. Or how to redraft it.<br />
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Most fortunately, in general the shoulder to centre-front distance seems to be the same despite me being a lot of sizes bigger than the pattern. I made a mock-up and laid it against the neckline and it matched up very neatly. The pieces themselves go together in a most peculiar way, I practised and got it wrong a few ties before I understood how it worked, and once I did it was a thing of absolute beauty.<br />
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The fabric, while gorgeous, has got quite a tendency to fray so I have used French seams on most of it apart from the princess seams in the bodice. I'll probably need to keep an eye on them for fray, but it should be ok.<br />
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I'm still in shock that I've actually made a ball gown. I suppose a dress is a dress is a dress, but perceptually a silk ball gown seems so much more advanced than a little cotton summer frock - is it?<br />
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I wore it with some AWESOME Irregular Choice shoes, a beaded waspie corset and some elbow length gloves. I'm not wearing a hat, it's my mask pushed back on my head!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzz1fLf3IHjUnTQbvadv4jjaLkAz-TJuREv63YS79Y0UlWPk_i0MGco0lTOoAZDUc6Yjjli0yCEL7a5wcc_slySeKP2zsxiOyuG9vOd2Torm0RNjUhK3yArqvha-HsQWaTbnGhljEZyM/s1600/Awesome+shoes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguzz1fLf3IHjUnTQbvadv4jjaLkAz-TJuREv63YS79Y0UlWPk_i0MGco0lTOoAZDUc6Yjjli0yCEL7a5wcc_slySeKP2zsxiOyuG9vOd2Torm0RNjUhK3yArqvha-HsQWaTbnGhljEZyM/s200/Awesome+shoes.jpg" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDDw_n8jscw-4icE0UgoZsM_Of9vgyiuxAuyf1jOnz7WtA7aB3JFsnWJDN7E9BInPxh6sJ9C5OrBkuSsHzP-bMkItkzCzq9vdHEXNrZoLvZpXFA51Nb9HWHsrCVNPKBHkgyQtXLrz_7YA/s1600/My+dress+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDDw_n8jscw-4icE0UgoZsM_Of9vgyiuxAuyf1jOnz7WtA7aB3JFsnWJDN7E9BInPxh6sJ9C5OrBkuSsHzP-bMkItkzCzq9vdHEXNrZoLvZpXFA51Nb9HWHsrCVNPKBHkgyQtXLrz_7YA/s200/My+dress+3.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
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Apart from all that I also made about 60m of bunting, and the wedding cake, and a bit of mini-bunting for the top of the cake!<br />
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It was a wonderful wonderful weekend, worth every stitch!</div>
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-2541818707758708362017-08-29T15:54:00.000+01:002017-08-29T18:14:29.720+01:00Sea FeverThere has been holiday! Sometimes I take a machine with me, and I almost did this year, but in the end I decided to leave it at home.<br />
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While on holiday I saw a beautiful dress - the <a href="https://www.seasaltcornwall.co.uk/women/clothing/dresses-and-tunics/dresses/organic-cotton-breton-striped-stay-sail-dress.htm" target="_blank">Stay Sail from Seasalt</a>. <br />
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It's a simple jersey dress with a slightly nautical vibe that looks very easy to wear. I LOVED it, but it's £55! And they didn't have my size anyway. <br />
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As I looked at it and thought about it I realised that it was quite similar to the F<a href="https://www.fancytigercrafts.com/products/fen-printed-pattern" target="_blank">ancy Tiger Fen dress</a>, a pattern I already own and have made <a href="https://bookworm-airhead.blogspot.co.uk/2016/05/sunshine.html" target="_blank">twice</a>. I asked on their facebook page if anyone had made the Fen in a knit - it's intended for a woven - and while they didn't know of any they give me some very helpful tips.<br />
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Saturday saw me hitting the fabric shop for some striped jersey - and I struck very lucky with the sale as it was £3.50 a metre! So yesterday I got to drafting and sewing...<br />
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<b>Alterations to the pattern:</b><br />
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<li>Sized down by one size - you can do that when going from a woven to a knit to take account of the negative ease with a stretchy material</li>
<li>Changed the pocket hole from curved inset to a slanted one</li>
<li>Removed the bodice darts - I just cut them up the centre and overlapped the legs to remove them </li>
<li>Lengthened the skirt by about 3 inches - I felt the previous two were a tiny bit too short and while the jersey is heavier and would probably have pulled down enough I fancied a bit more knee coverage!</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8Ai6oKrSGnJVeAFyRK8G-8xeycnMd6cDVFEyjPWfq21UEPj4k-Hu3E5YFRCeScieMpHh5dyGMC3sx2VfIHjGR31_gciIbMiBzi6hXQMRG5zUr89tMij77kCle7WmK4VJZYBXNmYLlZM/s1600/36085543433_c7b97dddb2_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8Ai6oKrSGnJVeAFyRK8G-8xeycnMd6cDVFEyjPWfq21UEPj4k-Hu3E5YFRCeScieMpHh5dyGMC3sx2VfIHjGR31_gciIbMiBzi6hXQMRG5zUr89tMij77kCle7WmK4VJZYBXNmYLlZM/s320/36085543433_c7b97dddb2_o.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8kOKUSEht9ts9M98erZAR9fvK1FFMSHWrJZhFT6uRuS9Bdxghnb7nnEmnZB_6n1Zizfo3Lx0Ajmh6xhlg-8vneqe1S80t1pNHp0ZJAwhIsTeNWCUDKFx2-k-SrOuWs8Z0HhwxnJzfoMw/s1600/36085522943_ee8790d736_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8kOKUSEht9ts9M98erZAR9fvK1FFMSHWrJZhFT6uRuS9Bdxghnb7nnEmnZB_6n1Zizfo3Lx0Ajmh6xhlg-8vneqe1S80t1pNHp0ZJAwhIsTeNWCUDKFx2-k-SrOuWs8Z0HhwxnJzfoMw/s320/36085522943_ee8790d736_o.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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After that it was a relatively simple sew. I stabilised the waistband with elastic - there's clear stuff you can use but I find it maddeningly scratchy (SUCH a princess!) so I normally just use normal narrow elastic which is softer. I cut it to the width of the bodice and then sewed it to the skirt top with a stretch stitch. it's done a really nice soft gather that is pretty evenly balanced.<br />
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Last of all I used a bit of bought stretch binding for a tiny bit of colour detail and twin stitched the cuffs and hem with a matching red. You can't tell, but I know it's there and that's enough for me!<br />
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I think it would even be possible to size down a little more at the waist but that's a tiny detail.<br />
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All in all I'm really pleased with it, it's a close enough approximation of the dress I saw, it's SO comfortable, loose enough but not ridiculously baggy, wearable with gym shoes or sandals, cool, simple, pretty. <br />
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So, £55 or £9? I know which one I prefer!<br />
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I'm going to call it a Fen-Sail!<br />
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Shoes - Ancient Skecher Go Walks<br />
Hair - bouncy<br />
Greengages - falling off the tree<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-50343360039507181122017-07-29T14:34:00.002+01:002017-07-29T14:40:31.262+01:00Three months later...Oh, hello sewing mojo - sewjo? - there you are. I was wondering where you'd got to.<br />
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There I was, full of plans and with a wonderful new fabric stash to play with courtesy of my friend who is moving to another country and BIFF. BANG. POW. No inlination, no spark, sewing room in darkness...WOE!</div>
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It felt like a long way back. And all the while I still had <i>plans </i>just...no actual <i>doing.</i> And I had promised a garment to my mum for her birthday which was...oh yes, three months ago. THE GUILT every time I did something else! She's very patient, my mum. Which is just as well really.</div>
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And she carried on being very patient without saying a word. But <i>finally</i>, a couple of weeks ago, I got the fabric out and traced the pattern and put the thing together and Hoorah, Mum's birthday kimono is done! <a href="https://www.simplicitynewlook.com/1108" target="_blank">I used Simplicity 1108</a>, view D, lengthened a little, and made it in Liberty poplin, the floral print is called Paul, which I bought from <a href="https://www.shaukat.co.uk/product/pop-paul" target="_blank">Shaukat</a>. As with all things Liberty the fabric is really lovely to cut and sew, and the colours are gorgeous. I edged it in plain blue poplin bias binding.</div>
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Have you ever made continuous bias binding? It's quite easy and way better than cutting endless strips and piecing them together. I had NO idea how much I needed so I cut a square and drew my lines and got snipping. About 30 minutes later I was still snipping. The square I cut was really quite big. Unnecessarily so. And I now have around THIRTY METRES of duck-egg blue poplin binding! It goes from the back of my house all the way to the front, twice.</div>
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You can avoid that by using <a href="http://so-sew-easy.com/continuous-bias-binding-calculator/" target="_blank">this handy calculator</a>. Which I had completely forgotten existed. </div>
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The pattern goes together pretty simply - except for the sleeve bits, I couldn't figure those out at all for some reason so that had some unpicking and redoing but we got there in the end. And I did french seams on all except the sleeves, and they do look very lovely and neat.</div>
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And then I forgot to photograph it before I handed it over, so you'll just have to take my word for it.</div>
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Since then it's been all go back in the sewing room.</div>
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I redid the tea-cosy I made last year as all the stuffing had slipped. So I bought new wadding and used some of the bias to do a new bound edge.</div>
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And then I got cracking on a second attempt at the<a href="https://shop.cashmerette.com/collections/patterns/products/springfield-top-pdf-pattern" target="_blank"> Cashmerette Springfield </a>- a nice top of the kind that goes with jeans or crops.</div>
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My <a href="https://bookworm-airhead.blogspot.co.uk/2016/08/snatching-victory-from-jaws-of-defeat.html" target="_blank">first attempt</a> last August was a complete fail. Luckily Jenny is a very good correspondent on social media and gave me some advice about the right size to cut, it just took me ages to get around to it. But I'm finally there!</div>
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This isn't a very drapy or flowy fabric, it's a straight cotton, but I do love the two together - the green is a Rose & Hubble and the pink is by Belleboo. I made a slight alteration to the arm and neck finishing - the patterns calls for a facing strip, but by the time I'd cut them they were too wide so I turned them into a bias-bound edge. My neckline isn't totally flat but I can live with it, especially as I hand-finished them all and don't intend doing them again! But it's a nice and quick sew, and took an afternoon to finish. I like the split side-seam and the contrast band.</div>
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Top - Cashmerette Springfield<br />
Crops - cut down from charity shop jeans (50p!!) and taken in at the waist<br />
Hair - drying<br />
Toes - really in need of some varnish<br />
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And after that I tackled my mending basket and got to grips with popped seams and unlined waistbands and things that needed a bit of tinkering to get a better fit. I think I'm back, Back, BACK! </div>
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Now I'm going to play with t-shirt patterns. My most favourite, most <i>perfect</i> Gap one went into holes a couple of years ago and I'm going to try and recreate it...</div>
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"Phew, for a minute there I lost myself...."</div>
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Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-19239197523910642612017-04-21T12:02:00.000+01:002017-04-21T12:09:42.557+01:00A tale of two dresses. Or three. Or four...Grab a cuppa and a snack, this post is L O N G and full of pictures!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgecFxn7J7NyQVF2OjdMegyoz1qFpZQMhcM0yNGd4HDD26ZpX5C-wbodtEuud6cUMmMczijmN2CW5wZBvIDv9T_uQmDgnbNs23TyfE4Y_318Q8N-k-M3Qj3YoiAZmPSLXkOXmwojIq7-ro/s1600/IMG_0213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgecFxn7J7NyQVF2OjdMegyoz1qFpZQMhcM0yNGd4HDD26ZpX5C-wbodtEuud6cUMmMczijmN2CW5wZBvIDv9T_uQmDgnbNs23TyfE4Y_318Q8N-k-M3Qj3YoiAZmPSLXkOXmwojIq7-ro/s320/IMG_0213.JPG" width="240" /></a>Since I attended the bodice-drafting class at <a href="http://www.makeplacenorwich.co.uk/" target="_blank">Makeplace </a>in Norwich I have been doing a LOT of thinking and planning. And worrying. And buying books. And reading blog posts. And looking at my lovely fitted block!<br />
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And then I drafted a sort of sleeveless top for myself - a bit like a Colette Sorbetto but without the having to add a bust adjustment. Well, that was a disaster! Armholes down to the waist, hello bra straps, neckline wider than Gaping Gill...all mostly because I have NO IDEA how to add design ease! Let's just chuck the fabric into the scrap bag and call it a learning experience! It scared me off for a while.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOOpnRjFR8tC5OeYm9MjK_SpYdxhyphenhyphenbv2dD5xGWE7NEsx9YQrhP4fkcW9X9eC7BBb2rBMk67j1GF6GS26emts7SbexGD16isvpwICo2h41myI4Bn_aDSPhUXR8B6UgiCfavXkESBYgo_Y/s1600/IMG_0085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZOOpnRjFR8tC5OeYm9MjK_SpYdxhyphenhyphenbv2dD5xGWE7NEsx9YQrhP4fkcW9X9eC7BBb2rBMk67j1GF6GS26emts7SbexGD16isvpwICo2h41myI4Bn_aDSPhUXR8B6UgiCfavXkESBYgo_Y/s320/IMG_0085.JPG" width="320" /></a>Then I started thinking about what a waste of a class it would be to not do anything else so I looked at the Winifred Aldrich book Metric Pattern Cutting For Women again and started to understand how to actually use it with my block.<br />
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I decided to make a button front dress with a swishy skirt. I cut a half circle for the skirt using the calculator on <a href="http://pattybrower.com/2011/08/circle-skirt-calculator-for-the-drafting-of-full-half-and-34-skirts-with-bonus-grading-worksheet/" target="_blank">Patti Brower's website</a> - which is absolutely the best calculator there is!<br />
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Then it was time for pattern drafting. First of all I rotated the dart to the armscye and added a button stand/placket to the centre front. Those are two things I've never done before - but then I've never really designed something from scratch before anyway so...<br />
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I made a toile and the front was really nice - plenty of space, but the waist and bust dart points were ascloseasthis, so I decided to turn them into a princess seam. Oh yes, I know NOW that I need to shorten the dart points for actual wear!<br />
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Now, I've never even <i>sewn </i>a princess seam, let alone drafted one of my own, but I like a challenge. Brave or foolhardy, you decide...<br />
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Well, I made a princess seam from the armscye and it worked pretty well. I liked the look so I dug out a piece of weird vintage fabric I bought a couple of months ago at the Maker's Month thing. I have NO idea what it is - some kind of nylon stuff - it's a pretty floral, 2.75m for £3. Even if it went wrong it wouldn't be a massive waste of money.<br />
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Oh so slippery though. It slid all over the table. I managed to get it cut, but it was a challenge. And then there wasn't enough for sleeves too, but there was enough to make some bias binding so that's what I've used to edge the arm-holes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPHs8VF4xUCg1t7vaE4Uu-IuYovDHs2v6rufarH0g9Q_HlwJcfW8XHVGch1SjcsnlwHpVZTm6319An0RBowfe-7z-TSyFBzR6c6bE8qolWdRYBYtuVIhhmmFniq6UJ_ImQrb2EvMt0t0/s1600/IMG_0196.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLPHs8VF4xUCg1t7vaE4Uu-IuYovDHs2v6rufarH0g9Q_HlwJcfW8XHVGch1SjcsnlwHpVZTm6319An0RBowfe-7z-TSyFBzR6c6bE8qolWdRYBYtuVIhhmmFniq6UJ_ImQrb2EvMt0t0/s320/IMG_0196.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
The button placket is quite narrow but I managed to find 10 matching buttons in my tin. By the following day I only had 9 buttons. I have no idea where the tenth went, I think the cat flicked it on to the floor - they were enticingly skittering all over the top of my sewing table...<br />
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Anyway, I like it, it needs a bit of taking in at the waist, but I like wearing it, weird fabric and all.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyOJrsdIpZy6uh8lbUTlEp_6Doi-PAOxdJ0lp-F1yiu1DWQ5MuPzEp4_ffqe-i5YLrT_CpU2XJjOdfLXsY1r1w8LHe1UAwaJ-aqdQlUNHKQmR27LHPEVYJnwK16Am4vpW4vvKYhV6pBg/s1600/IMG_0218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuyOJrsdIpZy6uh8lbUTlEp_6Doi-PAOxdJ0lp-F1yiu1DWQ5MuPzEp4_ffqe-i5YLrT_CpU2XJjOdfLXsY1r1w8LHe1UAwaJ-aqdQlUNHKQmR27LHPEVYJnwK16Am4vpW4vvKYhV6pBg/s320/IMG_0218.JPG" width="240" /></a>After that I decided to use a piece of Liberty-ish poplin from my stash - I've had it for ages and have already used a different colourway for a <a href="https://fancytigercrafts.com/products/fen-printed-pattern" target="_blank">Fancy Tiger Fen,</a> so I know it cuts and sews up really nicely. It was from my local market and is pretty pricey at £10 a metre but it looks very like a combo of Liberty prints <a href="https://www.shaukat.co.uk/product/pelagia-03637014b" target="_blank">Pelagia</a> and <a href="https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/ianthe-tana-lawn-cotton-R069432006.html?dwvar_000523172_color=C" target="_blank">Ianthe</a>.<br />
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Alterations this time round were to add pockets, draft the princess from the shoulder and add it to the back pieces too, face the neck, put in a back zip instead of front buttons and to scoop the neck.<br />
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What went wrong? Oh a lot! I put the pockets in too low - it's not a great look scrabbling around the knees! So I took them out, opened up the seam and put them back in higher up.<br />
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I drafted a facing using this tutorial <a href="http://www.emmakespatterns.com/all-in-one-facing/" target="_blank">http://www.emmakespatterns.com/all-in-one-facing/</a> and then followed the instructions in the Gretchen Hirsch's Ultimate Dress Book for construction. And having sewn it together I couldn't turn it through the shoulders. So I unpicked the armholes, chopped it into just a neck facing and then made bias tape for the armholes.<br />
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The zip went in PERFECTLY! My best zip EVAH!<br />
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But somewhere along the line the princess seam has gone a tiny bit too big - it's bagging a bit at the front. It really was perfect on my toile. And now it isn't. I might unpick it and recut the lines, but I probably won't. Or at least not now anyway.<br />
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The length after hemming is exactly where I wanted. And the fit is smooth and has just enough ease to feel fitted but comfortable. Pattern matching is a bit hit and miss, but in a busy pattern I don't think it's such an issue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipuTwVYlzxD-NSizUG1tifRxFMme6Mxu7PQf114J41_lJSNnDf9k_YCM98myeZCWPVo6zxqIc9uoJjtPaKNRKLQRHCdqbBEOQkjLeKIbz0x9yCSlcSihmTWM2jgOFm_Gg8WMle71WlVE/s1600/IMG_0239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjipuTwVYlzxD-NSizUG1tifRxFMme6Mxu7PQf114J41_lJSNnDf9k_YCM98myeZCWPVo6zxqIc9uoJjtPaKNRKLQRHCdqbBEOQkjLeKIbz0x9yCSlcSihmTWM2jgOFm_Gg8WMle71WlVE/s320/IMG_0239.JPG" width="240" /></a>I think this fits the criteria for a spring/summer dress and I reckon I will be wearing it a lot! If it's windy and you see me out you might want to avert your gaze, the half circle skirt is quite fluffy and prone to knicker-flashing in a stiff breeze!<br />
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I love the final look, and I think I shall be tinkering with this over the next couple of months, getting the seams right, maybe narrowing the skirt a little - that would make it less of a fabric-eater for sure and I have some lovely narrow vintage crepe that is just LONGING to be a pretty dress...<br />
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Note: I do have two legs in the usual run of things, one is propped on the wall. It's a pose that doesn't really work in a dress does it!<br />
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Shoe(s) - Asda<br />
Shoelaces - you can't see them, they have cherries on them<br />
Necklace - pretty but weirdly scratchy<br />
Hair - the less said the better TBH.<br />
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-17295244142357839072017-03-19T16:26:00.000+00:002017-03-19T16:26:05.185+00:00Making time for making thingsIt's taken a few weeks to get the trousers finished, I cut them out about 10 days ago and did the main seams, then earlier in the week I pinned and tacked in the zip and <i>then</i> I had NO time to finish them. Until today!<br />
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Mr Wonderful took The Girl swimming so I had the house all to myself and have been able to get them finished. <br />
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I did a side zip on this pair - not sure why I opted for that but it seems to give a nice smooth line. And I made a facing for the top instead of a waistband which is also nice and smooth.<br />
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The pattern matching is a bit shonky, but the fit...OH the fit! They're not too loose or too tight. They fit my bum AND my legs AND my waist! I can sit in them comfortably and cross my legs but they don't fall down or need a belt...they really are the holy grail of trousers and I foresee a few more in my future wardrobe.<br />
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By the time I finished twin-needle stitching the hems I had this much thread left.<br />
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Fabric was from Anglian Fashion Fabrics, not the sale rail for a change! Actual metreage, measured out!. It is faintly itchy so must have a touch of wool in there somewhere but it's bearable.<br />
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After that I put some fisheye darts in a couple of silk tops I had made a few years ago in India. They are gorgeous material but very boxy and shapeless so I never wore them. Two darts later they are shaped and wearable...I'm wearing one in these pictures, the other is a lovely amethyst colour.<br />
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And then I made some new handles for a cheapo bag I bought YEARS ago - the vinyl was rubbing off so I cut off the old straps and replaced them.<br />
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All in all a good sewing day!<br />
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Top - modified green silk from Mysore<br />
Trousers - drafted and made by me!<br />
Shoes - none<br />
Hair - flyaway<br />
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-45028872852567276792017-03-11T09:04:00.000+00:002017-03-11T09:04:05.341+00:00Blocks and what I did next...It's been a few weeks. There has been sewing, natch, because I am obsessed.<br />
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But mostly I've been learning and planning and thinking. <br />
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Learning - well, at Christmas I was given two sewing classes, one each from the husband and the mothership. They are at <a href="http://www.makeplacenorwich.co.uk/classes" target="_blank">Makeplace </a>which is a lovely place - nice airy room, lots of space, lovely Juki machines, really good teachers.<br />
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I chose the ones I wanted, which were how to draft a bodice block and a trousers block. I had to wait to go on each one - and as an impatient Mr Toad I-WANT-IT-NOW kind of person that was quite hard. But each day finally came and I am now the proud owner of two pattern blocks that fit my exact measurements, and a whole heap of extra knowledge and information and a couple of new books.<br />
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The class is run over a day and has 4 people so you get really good 1:1 time with the tutor and plenty of time to ask questions and chat, as well as space to manipulate large sheets of card to make the block.<br />
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Each class used the steps and principles of <a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Metric-Pattern-Cutting-Womens-Wear/dp/1444335057/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488123377&sr=8-1&keywords=metric+pattern+cutting+for+women%27s+wear" target="_blank">Winifred Aldrich's Metric Pattern Cutting book</a>, <br />
What was interesting for me is that it really reinforced that there is no such thing as a 'normal' shape - even the slenderest of people have fitting issues! And as I have my own ample bum to think about and fit, I had never really experienced that a flat bum is just as much of a fitting issue. But it is!<br />
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The bodice is a close-fitted style, I should be able to go pretty much anywhere into fitted blouse or dress bodice with it, and I am planning a simple dress with a half circle skirt for summer. But the trousers...oh my! My trousers block, in particular, is simply amazing.<br />
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The style is for nice 'normal' trousers - the kind one might wear for work. Not too fancy, not jeans, not skinny, but properly fitted. I spent about 3 hours drafting the block and then the afternoon cutting fabric and sewing up a toile/muslin to tweak the fit. Mine didn't need tweaking at all, my partner was a very good measurer! And when I tried them on the fit is dreamy! Perfect on the waist, perfect over the bum, perfect across the leg...no pulls, no wrinkles, no need for a belt. And because they fit they also look nice on, they're flattering - and yes, in this context, by 'flattering' I <i>do </i>mean that they make me look a bit thinner. I know, I know...<br />
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Anyway,I went straight to the fabric shop and hit the sale rail as per and bought enough for a first pair, it said dry clean but has come out of the washing machine unscathed. And yesterday I went to the market and bought a piece of wool/poly which is definitely washable and that's drying too.<br />
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I really can't wait to get them made up...<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-68095307381292562292017-01-07T23:37:00.000+00:002017-01-07T23:37:03.131+00:00My husband is rather wonderful<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Who lives in here?<br />
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It's my birthday in a few weeks. Today we went out shopping and happened to visit John Lewis haberdashery, where they had a special offer on a sewing machine - one I had been looking at and longing for. It's very beautiful. I stroked it. We came home. <br />
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An hour later he went out to buy it for my birthday.<br />
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OMG, it's AWESOME! It's got masses of features and is so quiet.<br />
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Lookit all these stitches!<br />
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I've knocked up a quick cover for it and it is so smooth and so quiet, it's just wonderful!<br />
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Lucky lucky me...<br />
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-50186767229097549012017-01-05T20:26:00.000+00:002017-01-05T20:35:21.856+00:00A Chocolate Chip for the new yearA couple of years ago the lovely <a href="http://www.cashmerette.com/2015/11/tilly-arielle-skirt-hack.html" target="_blank">Jenny of Cashmerette blogged about a skirt</a> she made and I LOVED it. I WANTED it. But as a total novice I had no idea how to do the hack or anything.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7UnKbHgsPeTvE1bb7fKXPRf1u5ztATaioBDjDg-EC_XB-m5KIFS-5c9F9OqBmOc5xiwsNlHubSa8HUMeOWp6DQ2v4F1xkSx9WhYCPDcuhWfoAEJ3GlQeZCKcfB6xFBa8SkFI4T5A3Xo/s1600/Asymm+wrap+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7UnKbHgsPeTvE1bb7fKXPRf1u5ztATaioBDjDg-EC_XB-m5KIFS-5c9F9OqBmOc5xiwsNlHubSa8HUMeOWp6DQ2v4F1xkSx9WhYCPDcuhWfoAEJ3GlQeZCKcfB6xFBa8SkFI4T5A3Xo/s320/Asymm+wrap+2.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
And then a couple of months after that one of the mags had a pattern for an asymmetric wrap and I had the perfect bit of sale-rail bargain to make it. And this was the result. It's a fine cord and I really love it.<br />
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I'd been planning to make another for over a year now, I've had some gorgeous stretch grey flannel and was planning to face it with some lovely petersham. BUT, my original one rises really badly at the back and the fit is a bit shonky. I thought about doing a bum adjustment (and how WEIRD does that sound?!) - I spent a few days earlier this week researching and looking for tutes and how-tos. And it all sounded a bit of a faff really. <br />
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But then I thought why not go straight to my TNT-everything-is-awesome-new-favourite, <a href="http://www.tiedyedivapatterns.com/product/the-chocolate-chip-skirt-for-women-xs-to-xxxl" target="_blank">The Chocolate Chip Skirt</a>? <br />
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I had a bit of a moment, the wrap has been in my head for so long that I was reluctant to abandon it, but I KNEW I would wear the other one A LOT. Plus, POCKETS!<br />
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In the end I had another JFDI moment!<br />
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So, charcoal grey stretch flannel with a contrast pocket. A while ago I bought a scrap bag from <a href="http://www.getcutie.co.uk/dresses/index.html" target="_blank">Get Cutie</a>, on eBay. They do lovely dresses in fabulous prints. Sushi! Matrioska! Frida Kahlo! And every so often they sell off scrap bags of off-cuts. I got one a while ago and it was full of fab prints.<br />
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<span style="color: black;">I had some Marvel, but not quite enough, BIG sugar skulls, Day of the Dead skeletons, and some Frida Kahlo.</span><br />
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In the end I went for the skeletons, because I knew I had enough and I really liked the contrast. Five hours later, with a break for supper, The Girl's bedtime and a bit of a look at <a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b0881gly/italys-invisible-cities-1-naples" target="_blank">Alexander Armstrong in Naples</a> - in which he went to Herculaneum, watch it if you get a chance - I had a lovely new skirt to wear! So this morning I wore it to work. It's a good fit, it's the right length, I love everything about it!<br />
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Pockets!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: start;">Top - Uniqlo, tights - slightly holey and due for the bin, shoes - Hush Puppies</span></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: start;">.</span>The pockets are slightly different - the fabric had brides and grooms so I did one each side!</div>
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Groom<br />
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Bride <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQUXWorXPHK4MPQS1kfzZw9cSkn6U_40ZfgT_nOLS4tIn7VlSeQs8aYtpBPWdvqV_mXDUshILKZ-fcspe5nhS5cu9zf7FQVywe8AEhYzxBkl2rme8odVwVedJSWKxIQvTteMM57cmtaS8/s320/IMG_0072%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></div>
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The other advantage of the skeletons was that it is really colourful so I was very happy to use this lovely bright petersham ribbon for a hem facing - it's a secret flash of colour and it makes me very happy!<br />
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If you're looking for a good wearable day skirt or if you've got the pattern in your stash and haven't made it yet...go for it!<br />
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And if you're interested in sewing or blogging about sewing, come on over to the <a href="https://m.facebook.com/groups/949212195196945" target="_blank">Dressmaking Blogging Network on Facebook... </a>Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-36724656258626597482017-01-03T20:52:00.002+00:002017-01-03T20:58:20.491+00:00It's not really t-shirt weatherAfter the darling mothership went home last week I reclaimed what other people might call 'the spare room' and <i>I</i> call the sewing room.<br />
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And yesterday I managed to get some time together and run up the first make of 2017, a <a href="http://www.mariadenmark.com/2012/05/kimono-t-shirt-pattern-free/" target="_blank">Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono tee</a>. I made one just before Christmas and it is a super easy pattern, good for getting back in the habit. I did a turn and slide FBA on the pattern which was really easy and nice for a no-dart top - <a href="http://www.mariadenmark.com/2014/06/easy-full-bust-adjustment-fba/" target="_blank">Maria Denmark has a tute</a> for this.<br />
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I used another of 'I just couldn't leave it on the sale rail' pieces from my stash, a soft blue-grey piece of modal, silk and elastane - no idea what percentage the elastane is but the stuff is really stretchy. It's so soft and drapey and easy to wear. Now, I know it's not perfect, but I kinda don't really want to take it off...<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-48768281319464800882016-12-30T16:58:00.002+00:002016-12-30T16:58:18.763+00:00End of the yearWell, OBVIOUSLY I made some things for presents which I couldn't post before they were given.<br />
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There was a rather sweet little bag for my mum:<br />
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The outer is wool, and it is lined with a sea-themed cotton - because she lives by the sea! I combined a free magazine pattern with a flap from the <a href="http://www.sewmamasew.com/2010/09/free-amy-butler-pattern-blossom-handbagshoulder-bag/" target="_blank">Amy Butler Blossom Bag</a>, (which I have made) but I slightly lengthened it to fit. Inside is a key strap. I kept the buttons to one corner to stop it looking too Per Una-y.<br />
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Mum says it's the perfect size!<br />
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After that I made some pyjamas for my sister. I got a little over-excited one evening after a couple of cocktails and ended up ordering A LOT of Liberty jersey from <a href="https://www.shaukat.co.uk/" target="_blank">Shaukat</a>. Seven metres. Ahem. Ok, ok! But it was <i>half </i>the Liberty cost. And I think I should get a dress and a whole heap of other things out of it. And it is GORGEOUS to work with - it cuts so easily and sews like a dream.<br />
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The bottoms are a slouchy fit, normally with an elastic channel and a drawstring. I added a wide and soft yoga waistband instead, and colour blocked the top to avoid full-on floral madness.</div>
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Sister says they are the perfect weight and the waistband is really comfy and they are very cheering for a dark winter's night.</div>
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I also got busy with some fur snoods lined with jersey which are really warm and cosy.</div>
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I saw it on the sample and sale rail and simply COULD NOT leave it behind. Well, wouldyou have done?</div>
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And then I hoped it was enough for a skirt, with the right pattern. And so I asked for ideas from my friends in a facebook group and was directed to the <a href="http://www.tiedyedivapatterns.com/product/the-chocolate-chip-skirt-for-women-xs-to-xxxl" target="_blank">Cocolate Chip Skirt from Tiedyediva</a>. It is an AWESOME pattern! It's quick, easy, looks gorgeous on and is really economical on fabric. Plus, POCKETS! I did a muslin first which was definitely necessary as I was so tight on fabric and had absolutely no hope of getting any more - it doesn't show up on any google searches. But I got it out of my 1.4m with room to spare, and that was including lengthening it by a couple of inches too and with my hips - no mean feat! I absolutely love it! </div>
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The top is a Maria Denmark Kimono t-shirt - another free pattern. It's 2 pieces plus neck and cuff bands, from cut to wear was about 90 minutes, mainly because I ballsed up the cutting and had to piece the back in the end. And I did a simple FBA - the pivot and swivel kind - to accommodate the embonpoint.<br />
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I did redo the neck as it was flipping out, because I cut the neck band too long so it didn't stretch into place nicely, it sits more neatly now. It's a great length, and a really nice simple tee. I can see a few of these in the future.<br />
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Apart from there were some make-up purses, a couple of headphones pouches and I think that was it. I've got my sewing space back now the guests have gone home so I'm planning what to do next.<br />
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Two of my presents were vouchers for classes at my local sewing shop and I am really looking forward to improving my fitting, and starting on trousers. Perfect fitting jeans, the holy grail, I really can't wait...Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-9269642796774129032016-09-18T17:59:00.000+01:002016-09-18T18:01:13.158+01:00Still quite obsessed with GrooveI finally got some sewing time this weekend when The Girl has a playdate yesterday afternoon (thanks Katie!).<br />
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It was time to try my hand at drafting a flutter sleeve. I found some simple instructions, drew a new short sleeve piece and proceeded to turn it into what I wanted. And it's worked, pretty much. It's nice and loose on the arm and drapes quite well in one version, less so in the cotton jersey as that's just thicker and less drapey overall.<br />
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As for construction, it all went together as expected - I think I'm getting to be a dab-hand at this dress now.<br />
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I'm pretty pleased overall.<br />
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The black/white flowers has a less dramatic high-low hem, even though I had 2.5m of stuff it was still a bit of a squeeze so I just cut it a bit shorter.</div>
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The blue snowflake is the cotton jersey, I was aiming for more of a tunic length for wearing with tights and boots, plus I only had 2.1m. I might chop it a bit shorter and straight across to get the edge to roll as I don't want to hem it.</div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">(This picture is a bit blurry and includes bonus husband-thumb shadow.)</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Flip flops - ancient.</span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Apart from that I've made a couple of draught excluders this afternoon from some green and gold damask. The house will be nice and cosy this winter!</span><br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-61719137657237874382016-09-05T21:34:00.002+01:002016-09-05T21:34:28.870+01:00It's all in my headI'm awash in plans and thoughts of what to make next. <br />
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I had a good fabric shop last Saturday, the trusty sale rail yielded some herringbone wool, a scant metre of black jersey and just over 2m of a snowflake patterned jersey, and I also got 2.5m of a black and white big floral jersey. So that's something for the Mothership, plus a t-shirt for me and another couple of Groove dresses. I might go for the regular straight hem for the snowflake to squeeze it out of the length. I'm also thinking about a flutter sleeve as well...<br />
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Plans plans plans!<br />
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First though I need some more tracing tissue, everywhere locally seems to be completely out so it has to be an online order from the enormo-retailer we all know.<br />
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This song uses the same guitar line as Tower of Strength by The Mission. No idea if it's accidental, borrowed or sampled.<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-32333351632111658282016-08-20T16:49:00.001+01:002016-08-20T17:36:20.496+01:00Snatching victory from the jaws of defeatI feel that although Colette Sorbetto is lovely, it's still a slightly iffy fit for me. So I was really pleased so see Cashmerette's new pattern release for a sleeveless top. It's called <a href="https://shop.cashmerette.com/collections/patterns/products/springfield-top-pdf-pattern" target="_blank">Springfield</a> and as with all Cashmerette patterns is drafted for the curvier figure - up to a size 28 and in a range of cup sizes. No having to do pesky bust adjustments YAY! It also comes in 2 variations - one is a little more fitted with a princess-seamed back and the other is looser and perhaps a bit more casual.<br />
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I have some lovely cottons that would be perfect for a nice summery top. So I measured and chose my size and got cutting with some sale-rail viscose. <br />
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Unfortunately I must have chosen the wrong size because it just isn't right. Or it's possibly a printing error because the test square was a little out. Either way it's very very wrong! I've asked Jenny how to put it right and she's given me some great advice so I will be trying again with a different size, but not till after my holiday...<br />
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In the meantime, to lift the spirits I unrolled the already reliable <a href="http://www.madeit-patterns.com/product/groove-dress-for-adults-2/" target="_blank">Groove </a>pattern, pulled out the piece of blue jersey and cut myself a t-shirt top instead.<br />
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Jeans - charity shop (bought just to cut down)<br />
Flip-flops - very old<br />
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I freehanded cutting it shorter to make it a top, and it's just about bang on where I wanted it - another fluke in what I am calling my Great Groove Adventure! <br />
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This top has everything that I want - I love love love it!<br />
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I am Groovin'...<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-53878310011166079372016-08-18T23:03:00.002+01:002016-08-18T23:03:24.662+01:00Groove is in the Heart<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After the joy of discovering on Sunday how wonderful the Groove Dress is, I just had to make another one. I had some lovely green striped jersey that I bought a few months ago, 2.3m in length, a shade under the recommended fabric requirement but enough all the same. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I love a horizontal stripe. All that fashion 'advice' about stripes being widening on the larger figure is such nonsense, it's actually the case that it can slim the shape as it creates a weird illusion. I saw it on a science programme, but you don't have to take my word for it, have a Google and see what you find!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, construction - I slightly shortened the back piece to make sure I got it all out of the length, and to be honest my pattern matching is DREADFUL! But who is looking at my seams?!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I love how this has turned out, and I'm super proud of the neatness of the neck band.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It's just so...wearable. Comfortable, still lovely and swingy, looks smart enough for work and casual enough for going out. AND it's madly quick to make - 30 minutes cutting out, an hour to sew up, and that included swapping over my overlocker and regular machine twice! I started sewing at about 10.20 and finished at 11,15.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next I'm thinking about hacking the pattern to make a swingy t-shirt top and I've got a nice bit of blue jersey just <i>begging </i>to be sewn...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Shoes - LK Bennett (in a sale a long time ago!)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Necklace - made by me</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bedroom - needs tidying</span>Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-53884051686124984772016-08-14T17:20:00.001+01:002016-08-14T17:21:19.834+01:00Let's Groove Tonight!<br />
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I've seen this pattern around in the last few weeks, there are lots of lovely makes on <a href="https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/groovedress/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, and it was Meg of <a href="http://cookinandcraftin.blogspot.co.uk/" target="_blank">Cookin' and Craftin'</a> who really inspired me to have a closer look.<br />
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It's the <a href="http://www.madeit-patterns.com/product/groove-dress-for-adults-2/" target="_blank">Groove Dress from Madeit Patterns</a>. Look at it! Isn't it gorgeous?! So swingy and loose, and so many variations. It was love at first sight, but still I didn't buy it immediately.<br />
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Normally I am quite impulsive (seriously, the husband has to talk me out of throwing caution to the wind All. The. Time. Which is a bit rich considering he asked me to marry him the fourth time we met!). Anyway, I really hum'd and hah'd about buying the pattern because 1) I wasn't sure it would suit me and 2) although it's a jersey dress I wasn't sure it would fit, even with the stretch, since I am outside the upper measurement. But I loved it so much! I really did, and every blog and picture I saw just made me love it more. So I bought it and printed it but I still didn't get to making. <br />
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Then, oh happy day, last week I threw on a linen dress of mine and realised that the style was pretty similar. And I knew I should <a href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=JFDI" target="_blank">JFDI</a>. <br />
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This comes as a PDF pattern. I have varying success with these, sometimes they print out perfectly and other times they just don't, even when the scaling square is right they go a bit askew, usually with two separate bits on one sheet. I was pretty lucky with Groove though.<br />
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And then I got The Fear. I was sure it wasn't going to fit. So I did the sensible thing and asked for advice on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/MIPatterns/" target="_blank">Madeit's Facebook</a> page and that was great because they replied really quickly. And what they advised was to simply increase the pattern by tracing a new line around the existing pattern pieces. "Ok" I said, blithely. I HAVE NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE!<br />
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Actually it's not so hard, and it's probably a good skill to have. And jersey is very forgiving. I did measure some of it, but I eyeballed a lot of it. And I seem to have lucked out to be honest - the sleeves and the bodice seams, and the side seams were EXACTLY the same size. This doesn't always happen with patterns I haven't altered!<br />
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I opted for the scoop neck, short sleeves and high-low hem - one combination of many. I can't do the maths, but with 2 sleeves, 5 necklines and 2 hems there are a lot of variations to choose from. <br />
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I also only had 2m of the fabric I was using. According to the instructions this was not enough. I laid both pattern pieces out and it looked fine but as soon as I'd cut one it just wasn't. So in my JFDI frame of mind I decided to piece the back. I cut the back piece as a separate skirt and bodice and I also had to cut the back bodice as two halves. This means that the back is not one smooth sweep, but I don't think it's made too much of a problem overall and I'm quite pleased with myself for thinking of it as a solution.<br />
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Construction is nice and simple - without having the piece the back it's shoulder seams, neck band, sleeves, side seams. I do love flat sleeves, it's so much easier! In total it took me about half an hour to trim the pages, an hour or so to stick the pattern together, 90 minutes to re-draft it and then trace it off, an hour to cut, and about 3 hours sewing. <br />
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Would I make it again? OH YES, 1000 TIMES YES! I love it. It's comfortable, it's swingy, I love the high-low hem. It's my new favourite thing.<br />
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I do not want to take it off! I have some gorgeous green striped jersey which will be lovely and I'm already thinking about when I'll be able to make the time to put it together.<br />
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As a perk, if you buy the adult or children pattern for Groove you get the teen sizes chucked in free. I would like it if one could choose whether to get the teen or the kid sizes, but a freebie is a freebie after all, and I am sure I know a teen or two that might like it! I will have to buy the kids' pattern though because The Girl wants one.<br />
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I'm off to dance around my sitting room to some classic disco...<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-64533753268796135752016-08-13T11:12:00.001+01:002016-08-13T11:20:10.831+01:00Summer is the time for Sorbet(to)If you're looking for a nice easy and quick sew, what you need is the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/sorbetto" target="_blank">Sorbetto top from Colette</a>. It's a pretty and simple sleeveless top, perfect for summer. It's a great stash buster - more on that later. It's very variable and hackable (is that a word? It is now...)<br />
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Sorbetto pretty famous in sewing-blog world. I've seen it countless times and I finally decided to try it for myself - I wrote about my first one a couple of posts back.<br />
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Sorbetto easy, quick, nice to sew. But I have had to do a fair bit to get it to fit me properly, and even now I don't think I've got it completely right. That's down to me, not the pattern.<br />
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I hadn't mentioned in my previous post that I did actually tissue-fit. I'd never done it before and I must say it's hard without help, and my husband, a truly wonderful man in a thousand different ways (feel free to make a vom-face), is not a natural midinette! <br />
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I did a fairly big FBA on version 1, and foolishly went straight to cutting out 4 from different fabrics. Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear! Oh poor excitable me! <br />
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So, after the first one I made some more. On the second I inverted the pleat and just secured it at the neck. I LOVE this fabric, moustaches are ace! It was leftover from a skirt I made for a friend, I bought it on eBay from India, it arrived really quickly and is lovely quality - it feels slightly brushed almost and with a good quality print. The leftover piece had a bit of a fading, but I think I managed to avoid it. A chap at work asked it is was anything to do with <a href="https://youtu.be/1xj02gt-5Ug" target="_blank">Mr B The Gentleman Rhymer</a>!<br />
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Then I made one from a bit of chiffon-y stuff that came in a mystery bag from Abakhan. I omitted the pleat altogether and used bought satin bias. It colour matched pretty well. The neck is slightly wide but I do really like this one. Chiffon is a bit of a swine to sew though, it slips all over the place! And I think my darts are waaaaaaaaay off, but if you're close enough to see that you probably aren't thinking about the quality of my sewing...</div>
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After that I was ready to sew the one I was most interested in. And here is where I tell you all about how I squeezed it out of a metre. And I did. A metre of my precious Liberty Lawn Mauverina, bought a year ago at Liberty itself, treasured for the right project, frequently taken out and gazed upon...my precioussssssss.<br />
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Except...you know it's not going to be that simple don't you! I wouldn't be talking about it if it was!<br />
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In my haste I had cut one of the pieces upside down. On a directional print. DAMMIT! So then I had to trawl eBay for some more, because however much I love it, that stuff is £22.50 a metre and I really wanted to pay a lot less. I found some at a good price, and then had to wait for it to arrive and wash it and dry it and press it and...the waiting was agony.<br />
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In the meantime I redid the FBA, and added another inch or so. And then I checked and rechecked the direction of the print before cutting and made this one. It's got a slight split at the side seams and I LOVE IT!<br />
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After that I hacked a Sorbetto into a bodice for a nightdress and added a gathered tube for a skirt in some lovely dotted swiss. Totally non-matching bias binding, but I quite like the contrast. Super cool and comfortable.<br />
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So, can you get a top out of a metre? Liberty Lawn is 150cm wide and I'd say that even at the larger end of the pattern sizing you <i>can</i> do it if you've also got the width, but it would be tricky on a narrower fabric. You might need to use bought bias, but it is possible. Just don't cut it upside down and have to order more.<br />
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Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-50663061922180873652016-06-19T16:32:00.001+01:002016-06-19T16:32:12.862+01:00New toys!Last month I went back to doing full-time hours for the next few months and on Friday I got my first full-time pay for almost 4 years. Oh man! Full-time pay! It is, as they say, totes amazes.<br />
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I had decided to buy myself an overlocker as a 'well done for going to work' present, and I went and got it yesterday. IT'S SO BEAUTIFUL! It's a Janome 9300DX. Features include a 3 or 4 thread option, it comes already threaded, the upper blade is really easy to lower, the front opens up and threading is colour-coded for each path.<br />
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I thought long and hard about which one to get, and my Mr Toad tendencies did have me veering towards something super-whizzy and full of features, but in the end I realised I didn't really need top of the range - I'm a domestic sewer after all, I don't need a professional-standard machine! And my local sewing shop had this one on offer so I was able to spend my money locally which always pleases me.<br />
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<span id="goog_1627485858"></span><span id="goog_1627485859"></span>I've just had a little test, re-doing the side seams of a jersey top I made a few weeks ago, the <a href="http://www.lovenotions.com/product/laundry-day-tee-xs-xxxl" target="_blank">Love Notions Laundry Day Tee</a>. <br />
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I really like the style of this pattern. It's the one I've mentioned before that I was a bit "hmmm" about but which has been worn a lot more than I expected. I still think I need to do a bust adjustment on the pattern as it does pull a bit over the bust, but in general it's a nice and easy to wear top. I will probably make another one or two.<br />
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Anyway, when I made it, I forgot to use a zig-zag stitch so the stitches were popping like crazy every time I put it on. BUT, this is all fixed now, thanks to my new overlocker. The seams are now nice and stable, and properly finished. I am so happy with my new addition...Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-31076528276052781292016-06-14T07:53:00.001+01:002016-08-13T11:21:33.275+01:00What I made next...<div class="" data-block="true" data-editor="9qblu" data-offset-key="6e5ff-0-0" style="background-color: white; color: #1d2129; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 18px; white-space: pre-wrap;">
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<span data-offset-key="6e5ff-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">This is what I made on Sunday and wore to work yesterday. It's Colette Sorbetto - which is still FREE! </span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="6e5ff-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">I have a feeling that the pattern printing was a little off, as the test square was a bit smaller, but I went for it anyway and the sticking together was ok, it all lined up. How do you get the printing right? Mine never turn out exactly right...</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="6e5ff-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">The pattern has been adjusted with an FBA and lengthened by about 3 inches, and I made the pleat a little narrower to increase the bust space.</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="6e5ff-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">I actually made a toile for a change too! </span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="dlv5b-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">Pattern says 1.5yds/1.3m, I think you can squeeze it out of slightly less - a metre of a wider fabric should be enough...</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="79oq7-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">My top stitching is orange, which you can't really see but looks rather effective.</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="8hobp-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">It's a tiny bit snug but very wearable, I already have another 3 cut out and am going to experiment with it a bit - maybe 3 little pin-tucks down the front, or a few buttons. I think the neckline could be a little lower for me and I will probably alter that, and might even make a v-neck on one of them - it's my favoured neckline.</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="e7ok2-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">In all it's a great simple wardrobe standard, and a good addition to my lack of me-made tops.</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="b9dbi-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">Fabric was from the John Lewis sale a few months ago, it's a sweet little dandelion print.</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="b9dbi-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">Hair towel - TK Maxx</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="b9dbi-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">Trousers - M&S</span></div>
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<span data-offset-key="b9dbi-0-0" style="font-family: inherit;">Feet - model's own!</span></div>
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Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-17857733762532847942016-06-08T17:31:00.002+01:002016-06-08T17:31:27.221+01:00What shall I make now?Doing Me-Made-May '16 made me realise I desperately NEED more tops and they need to fit better. So I am going to try and work on getting bust adjustments right. <br />
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I've got the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/sorbetto" target="_blank">Colette Sorbetto</a> pattern - it's free! - and I am going to practice with it until I've got it right and then I'm going to make some summery light tops to go with skirts and linen trousers. The fabric requirement is 1.5 yards or 1.3 metres but I'm hoping that I can possibly squeeze them out of metre pieces, though it may not be possible of course - particularly if I add the bust space and lengthen them a little.<br />
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Well, we'll see! If I can squeeze them out of a metre, I have a bit of one of my favourite Liberty Tana Lawns, a pretty grey dandelion print, some Riley Blake zigzag and a fab sock monkey print. Those would be nice summer tops I think.<br />
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Apart from that, my head is whirling with what to make next - the patterns and fabric are scrapping for attention in my mind so I need a bit of planning and thinking time to puzzle it out. I'm enjoying thinking about it though.<br />
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I've made some cardboard labels and hand-written "I am going to be a..." and attached them to my longer fabric pieces and then I will write on the label when I get the inspiration. I quite like to look of my fabric ladder with the labels waiting to be completed.<br />
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Hardest decision is what to make with the Christmas present I got from my sister last year.<br />
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It's a beautiful piece of Liberty cotton - Stile collection Lowke - and I just don't know whether to make a dress or a skirt. I simply can't decide! I think a skirt might get more wear, but a dress is always so easy to wear, and everyone thinks one has made an enormous effort...<br />
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More thinking time is needed!Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-76673697950521017172016-06-06T19:40:00.001+01:002016-06-08T16:50:17.216+01:00Holidays are over *sad face* And the end of #MMMay 16We had such a wonderful time on holiday, it was warm, but not too blisteringly hot, although The Girl did get a little burnt on one day - I wasn't in charge!<br />
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I managed to not get burnt and not get very mozzy bitten either, which is a first on both counts. I nomally get scorched somewhere along the line and provide the local flying wildlife with a daily banquet. It's a pleasant surprise to have escaped both of them.<br />
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I managed to wear quite a few things of my own for the rest of May and into June. I travelled in jeans and my loose swirly blue top and took with me the Love Notions LDT, the new Dottie Angel dress and one of my Fancy Tiger Fen dresses.<br />
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My LDT is already falling apart because I forgot to zig-zag it, but I have decided to buy an overlocker and will redo the seams when I've got it.<br />
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It was really nice wearing my own things and they got lots of praise and admiration which was lovely.<br />
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My Me-Made-May '16 challenge was to wear something made by me as often as practicable, and I actually ended up meeting it for about 28 days from 31, which was a surprise! The aim is to encourage people who don't necessarily wear their makes - and I already do, but it was still worth doing to discover what I like best, and how I wear them.<br />
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I need more tops, I love wearing dresses, I would really like a crack at some loose trousers and I have lots of fabric waiting to be made up...<br />
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<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8039049850331974232.post-31495719424373620972016-05-26T19:27:00.000+01:002016-05-26T19:28:15.597+01:00Getting demob happy!It's half-term next week, we are off on holiday and I am getting ridiculously excited!<br />
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I wore my new dress again today - working in a different office so no-one had seen it before, hurrah! I do really love it...and it got admired and praised which was lovely!<br />
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No idea what I'm going to wear tomorrow, we'll see in the morning.<br />
<br />Bookworm-airheadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16191956092798100741noreply@blogger.com0